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Florianopolis
is unquestionably beautiful. It is on the island of
Santa Catarina, which extends 53 km from North to
South and between 5 and 15 from East to West. Lagoa
da Conceição is one of the features of the island,
competing with the Hercílio Luz Bridge - an engineering
work-of-art which was the first link between Florianópoils
and the mainland - for the position as the city's
major symbol and postcard.
Fife
in Lagoa da Conceição changes constantly, in tune
with the seasons. It is a universe which follows nature's
cycles, but has a special characteristic: being geographically
located in the center of the island, surrounded by
some of the most famous beaches of the state of Santa
Catarina, Lagoa da Conceição is a meeting point, where
paths and spirits cross. A world on the fringe of
many worlds...
Multiple
Facets
Te
diversity of Lagoa can be perceived in the surrounding
nature, in the different people and in the activities
performed there.
Blessed
by nature: a water surface of approximately 15 square
km surrounded by mountains and with a link to the
sea through a channel. Many places along its banks
are accessible only by boat and the majority of its
margins are still largely untouched.
This
universe offers many perspectives. On the South side,
we find Canto da Lagoa. Ten years ago, land there
was very cheap. Today the place is highly valued.
University teachers, public servants, the nouveaux
rich, retirees and those seeking an alternative style
of living compete for square footage with the existing
locals. . Expensive modern houses share the largely
rural territory with islanders' houses that have stood
for generations. Here we can find people that haven't
visited the Florianopolis city center in years!
The
Urban Face
Another
perspective is of Centrinho. This is where we find
the shopping mall, newsagent, supermarkets, video
stores, gas station, surf shops, pubs, the Casarão
da Lagoa - a cultural center offering workshops on
music, photography, arts, etc. - restaurants, marinas,
and the stone bridge splitting the lakes' east and
west sides. . Centrinho is the urban face of Lagoa
and the front door for people coming from Florianópolis'
city center, after descending a hill with sharp curves
from which another perspective of Lagoa is unveiled:
the Tourist Viewpoint.
On
the left immediately prior to crossing the stone bridge
we find the way to Costa da Lagoa. It is possible
to drive part of the way by car and then it is either
by foot or boat to reach the village. Many houses,
bars and local restaurants have a boat pier. There
are boats providing public transport and it is also
possible to rent them. Life there is completely rural.
The boat trip is worthwhile and may end in one of
the many restaurants of the Costa, which offer very
fresh seafood at affordable prices.
After
crossing the stone bridge, we come to Avenida das
Rendeiras. It bears this name because of the traditional
elderly ladies who make lace work that can be found
by the road in small wooden huts. They make bobbin
lace, but the activity is under threat of extinction,
as the new generation of lace workers are not continuing
the tradition largely due to contact with 'outsiders'.
From
the Lagoon to the Ocean
At
the end of Avenida das Rendeiras the road divides.
If we continue straight ahead for 5km we arrive at
Joaquina Beach, the host of national and international
surfing competitions. If we choose the left fork,
we head to Barra da Lagoa. On the way we pass the
fashionable Mole Beach. The road also passes Galheta,
a nudist beach which has recently been declared a
protected area and can only be reached on foot from
Mole. On the left, on top of the hill, one can enjoy
a view of the lake even more panoramic than from the
Tourist Viewpoint.
After
a steep descent, pay attention to a small bridge.
A bit before, and also to the left there is a place
called Ponta das Caranhas where a good restaurant
of the same name is located. To the right, a narrow
road leads to Fortaleza da Barra, where restaurants
offer tables with big, colourful umbrellas on top
of piers over the channel used by speedboats, wave
runners and fishing boats traversing from the lake
to the sea.
After
the bridge we enter Barra da Lagoa. The road continues
North, leading to Ingleses. It is a sealed road that
crosses Rio Vermelho Forest Park through eucalyptus
trees and pine forests. The lake is to the left of
the road for a further 8 kilometees up to São João
do Rio Vermelho - a small native village. There is
a good viewpoint located at the Environmental Police
barracks. Further ahead, at Rio Vermelho, it is possible
for one to see the opposite coast of the lake, by
the foot of the hills Morro do Saquinho and Morro
do Tijuco.
Along
the road's right side while still inside the Park
there is a beach called Moçambique, which is the longest
on the island, measuring 12 km from Barra da Lagoa
up to Ponta das Aranhas, almost at Santinho. The distance
from the Tourist Viewpoint on Morro da Lagoa up to
this point is roughly 20 km, along which there are
five beaches, one lake and an infinite number of worlds.
Lagoa
24 Hours
The
day in Lagoa da Conceição starts early and finishes
late. At dawn, fisherman go out in their boats and
waiters collect bottles, clean tables, and reconcile
the pub tills. The early birds observe the action
as they jog, ride their bicycles or go after the first
fresh bread out of the oven. The first cars carrying
surfboards start to pop up. Despite not having waves,
Lagoa is a surfer's paradise. The best beaches on
the island for the practice of the sport are around
it: Joaquina,
Mole, and Moçambique.
Lagoa is on the way to all of them, and along nearby
roads one can get to Santinho
in the North, and to Campeche
in the South. All roads cross at Lagoa.
Lagoa is also
the stage for other extreme sports. From the surrounding
hill tops, one can usually see hang gliders and paragliders
dotting the sky with colors. On the dunes, between
Avenida das Rendeiras and Joaquina people practice
sandboarding, which is a type of surf on the sand.
On the water speedboats, small sailboats, jet-skies,
diving, and windsurfing dominate the scene. The island
of Santa Catarina has no marinas on its oceanic coast.
Well, Lagoa has two in operation and two being implemented.
That's where the speedboats that crisscross its waters
depart from before venturing into the sea through
the Barra channel.
Most
of the small sailboats depart from LIC (Lagoa Yatch
Club), which organises regattas valid for the state
and national championships. The club has a good nautical
infrastructure. The only two restrictions to sailing
at Lagoa are its two bridges - the one linking Centrinho
to Avenida das Rendeiras and another one over the
Barra channel. Both of them are too low and prevent
the passage of sailboats, unless the mast can be removed
and mounted again. Even so it is a lot of work.
By
mid-morning Lagoa starts to fizz, especially on weekends.
The sportsmen are already in the water or on the hills
when the beachgoers arrive. That's when the first
traffic jam of the day occurs at Morro da Lagoa, when
the vehicles line up behind the Barra da Lagoa bus
going uphill.
The
Midday Sun
Lunch
time at Lagoa is democratic and elastic. From 11 AM
on you can eat all kinds of food, anywhere, at all
prices. There are restaurants specializing in everything:
seafood, pasta, pizza, natural food, and even juice
and sandwich joints. The bastantões - a set menu serves
two or three people and costs next to nothing - concentrate
in Canto da Lagoa. Other more sophisticated restaurants
are found in Centrinho (Little center) and on Avenida
das Rendeiras, next to the marinas. In Costa da Lagoa
it is possible to eat well at low cost. In Joaquina
and Barra, especially at Fortaleza beach by the channel,
there are varied options.
In
the afternoon, as in the morning, the best program
is sun, beach, sea, lake, chatting up, and observing
the human types which, along with the natural beautiful
scenery, create Lagoa's magic. We find the manezinho
(island native) taking his bird for a stroll in its
birdcage, the fitness instructor jogging with her
dog, the girl who always goes topless at Praia Mole's
left end, the bearded blond guy with his prominent
belly who plays beach racketball watching the topless
girl, the showmen, TV hosts and journalists, singers
and instrumentalists that create the atmosphere in
the pubs and bars and can be seen in the restaurants,
bars, piers, and beaches. We also find the Rastafari
with his dreadlocks and wearing his eternal beanie
bearing the colors of Jamaica. We also find Andrino,
a famous "MANÉ" who was once the city mayor, member
of the nation's house of representatives and owner
of the "Postinho" (gas station). The characters are
endless.
At
Sunset
Everybody
meets at the end of the day at "Postinho" - a gas
station located in Centrinho next to the shopping
mall. Next to it there is a concentration of cake
shops that share a starving clientele between themselves.
From 4 to 7 PM the gathering of people is non-stop
and spreads to the neighbourhood: supermarket, cloth
shops, video shops, bakeries, newsagents, the local
square which from time to time holds a concert or
handicraft market, the Casarão, the pubs…
That's
when the second traffic jam occurs - the return home.
Depending on the weather it can be quite heavy. If
it rains in the middle of the afternoon it's hell:
everybody leaves the beach at the same time. People
coming from Joaquina compete for space with people
coming from Mole and Barra to get to Avenida das Rendeiras.
Then at Morro da Lagoa everybody lines up behind buses
- public transport and charted ones. As everybody
is tired, sweaty, salty, and starving, the level of
irritability is huge. Oh, Lord, give us patience!
Busy
till Early Morning
In
the early evening there is a slowdown. Time for a
break for dinner, shower, and dressing up for the
night realm. Soon Lagoa will be filled with people
again. The addresses for the action change though.
The Via Sacra under the moonlight starts by the Tourist
Viewpoint and finishes at Ponto de Vista located after
Mole Beach on the road to Barra. Both places are vantage
points with breathtaking views of Lagoa. In between
them there are dozens of alternatives.
One
of them is Centrinho itself, with its various options
for bars
and pubs and a pier, which is the perfect place
to take your boy or girlfriend. Still at Centrinho
we find the marina bars and some restaurants. The
night action continues after the bridge in a diversity
of pubs and night clubs located at Avenida das Rendeiras.
On the way to Rio Tavares there are also some interesting
options, from pool halls to specialized restaurants.
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